What Is Blackwork Embroidery?

Blackwork embroidery is a counted-thread embroidery technique. The simplest of all the embroidery stitches, the straight stitch, is used to make up the complex and intricate designs that can often be seen.

When these straight stitches are sewn in a combination, they make lines or geometric patterns. These geometric patterns are the main basis for the Blackwork embroidery technique.

The double running stitch, known as the Holbein stitch is used when the stitches are to form a line. The double running stitch has been used as a form of Blackwork embroidery since the start of the 16^th Century 

Today we can see proof of early use of Blackwork embroidery, through the many portrait paintings that survive from the time, although there is no evidence to support the use of Blackwork embroidery before 1516. The portrait of Jane Seymour painted by Hans Holbein the Younger (1537), is an excellent example of how Blackwork embroidery was used at the time to decorate garments.

Although Blackwork embroidery was a popular way of embellishing garments, there is also evidence that the technique was used to decorate house hold items such as bed linen and cloths.

The first type of Blackwork embroidery appears to have been simple edging designs and through time it has developed into the more complex designs that cover large areas.

Over time the Blackwork embroidery technique began to incorporate shapes that resembled leafs and flowers. As interest in the technique grew the leafs and were used as a base shape, which were then filled with the traditional geometric repeating patterns.

The actual term Blackwork refers to the method of embroidery, not the colour of the thread used. You might hear the terms Redwork, Bluework etc, these terms are reference to the colours of the thread that has been used in the embroidered piece. However, the true terminology “Blackwork” covers all colours, not just black (which is the traditional colour of thread that was used).

Proficient Blackwork embroiderers often undertake shaded Blackwork. This is a very clever use of the technique. A shape is filled with the repeating Blackwork stitches, however one part may be denser than another (created by skipping small parts of the design or adding small bits to it), the finished effect is a rather amazing 3D shape, created through the shading technique.

The original fabric used for Blackwork embroidery would have been linen, and traditionally clothes were made from it. However, Blackwork embroidery can be worked on most any fabric. When looking for fabric to buy for your Blackwork projects, buying a close weave fabric will result in a smaller finished piece (the higher the thread count, the smaller the finished piece). If you are looking to start Blackwork embroidery, try it first with Aida fabric. Aida fabric, is the fabric that is mainly used today for Cross-Stitch (Cross-Stitch is the modern ancestor of Blackwork Embroidery). The average size is 14 count Aida, this is good to start practising with as you can clearly see the threads and the holes (as you’re required to count these using any counted-thread embroidery technique), once you’re happy with the results, move on to a fabric with a higher thread count and so on, until you’re sewing on fine material.

Blackwork embroidery, is a very beautiful skill to undertake and master, and will offer you hour of pleasure, your finished pieces will enchant everyone.